Cooktops, heaters and gas lines installed, pressure tested and certified in a single visit, with the Certificate of Compliance handed over before we leave.
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Gas work is licensed work, and every job finishes with a Certificate of Compliance. Most people file it without reading it, and then need it years later at exactly the moment it is hardest to reproduce.
It is the document that says a licensed person did this, to the standard, on this date. Insurers ask for it after an incident. Conveyancers ask for it at sale. If a previous owner had work done and there is no certificate behind it, the question lands on you.
So we hand it over on the day rather than posting it later, and we would say the same about anybody else's work: ask for it, keep it with the property papers, and treat a shrug as an answer in itself.
The work in front of it is straightforward. Supply confirmed at the meter, demand calculated against what the line can deliver, the appliance connected, and the whole thing pressure tested before it is signed off.
No switches, no phones indoors. Turn it off at the meter only if you can reach it safely, then ring us from outside.
Open the building up so air can move through it, then get everybody outside, then call. Do not touch anything that makes or breaks an electrical circuit on the way.
Turning the supply off at the meter is worth doing when the meter is easy to reach from where you already are.
Ring us from outdoors and a licensed fitter will answer. If it is a job for the network's emergency crew rather than for a plumber, we will say so straight away.
Adding an appliance is a calculation against total demand, not a plug-in. The line has a capacity and so does the meter, and in housing of this age both are frequently modest.
Where the sums do not work, appliances starve each other, and a burner that drops off whenever somebody runs a shower is nearly always this rather than a faulty appliance.
It is arithmetic rather than judgement, and it happens before anything is ordered.
Its input rating is the number the sizing uses, stated in megajoules per hour and usually found underneath or on the back of the appliance.
A photograph of that plate is enough to get started and it is the single most useful thing you can send before a quote.
Bring it early, because it decides the pipe size and pipe size decides the route and therefore the price.
This ground has carried water infrastructure since the nineteenth century, including Busby's Bore, which is heritage-listed and still beneath the area.
So a new gas run that has to be trenched starts with finding out what else is down there. That is a search rather than an assumption.
Anybody pricing a trench here without mentioning it has not thought about where they are, and the variation will arrive later.
A quote for a new run should say where the pipe is going and what it assumes about the ground, not only what it costs.
Going around an obstacle frequently costs less than going under it, even though it is more metres of pipe, and on ground like this that is more true than usual.
So a per-metre figure is an estimate rather than a price.
No ground involved at all, so it costs what it costs anywhere and there is no uncertainty in it. Where an existing point can serve the appliance, that is the answer.
It still needs testing and certifying, because a point that has been sitting unused is not automatically sound.
It is worth asking about before assuming a new run is required.
A make-safe before a renovation is a gas job, not a favour from whoever is on site. Capping a point means capping it properly, testing the line, and certifying the result.
Gas is licensed work in NSW and there is no small-job exemption for making a point safe.
It is also quick and inexpensive, which is why there is no good reason to skip it.
If a renovation is going to cover a gas point with new plasterboard, tiling or cabinetry, deal with it first. Behind a finished wall it is invisible and unreachable.
That is the version that causes real problems later, because nobody knows it is there and nothing indicates it.
One short visit at the right point in a build avoids it entirely.
Correct pipe size for the run and the total load. A held pressure test. Manufacturer clearances observed. Flueing that discharges to the right place. Ventilation appropriate to the appliance and the volume of the room.
None of it is discretionary and none of it is visible afterwards, which is an unusual combination and the reason the certification system exists.
It is the strongest practical argument against having gas work done by somebody who cannot issue one.
Required on every gas job, and worth keeping with the property papers. It records who did the work, that they held a licence, and that the installation met the standard on the day.
It is what an insurer asks for after an incident and what a conveyancer eventually asks for at sale, and it cannot be recreated afterwards.
On a buried run it is also the only record of where the pipe actually went, which matters the next time anybody digs here.
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges.
Connected, tested and certified in the one visit.
Priced on the run rather than by the hour.
Including the compliance certificate in your hand.
On the settled route, and after the search where it is buried.
Made safe at any hour, with the cause established afterwards.
What the property already has, what you want to add, and the model if you have bought it.
Confirmed at the meter and calculated against the line, so nothing gets connected to a supply that cannot carry it.
Fitted to the Australian Standards and pressure tested before anything is signed off.
The Certificate of Compliance handed over before we leave rather than posted afterwards.
Get outside, leave the switches alone, and ring. A licensed gas fitter can be on the way immediately.
Call 1300 381 569Yes, on every gas job, and it is not a formality. It is the record that the work was done by a licensed person to the standard. Insurers ask for it after an incident and conveyancers ask for it at sale, sometimes years later, and reconstructing one after the fact is a problem you do not want to have.
Usually, and it is a sizing question rather than a yes or no. Every appliance draws on the same supply, so what matters is the total demand against what the line and the meter can actually deliver. We calculate it rather than assume it.
The model of the appliance if you have bought one, because the input rating on its plate is what the sizing calculation uses. That one detail answers most of the question on the phone.
Then the free asset search goes in before anybody breaks ground. This area has carried water infrastructure since the nineteenth century, and nobody should be putting a trench into it without knowing what the plans show.
Everyone outside first. No light switches, nothing electrical, no phone used indoors. Turn the supply off at the meter only if you can reach it safely, then ring from outside.
Yes, and it is worth having done properly rather than capped by whoever is on site. A make-safe disconnection is a licensed job and it gets certified like any other.
An appliance connection is $200 to $500. A new gas point is $500 to $1,200 depending on the run. A leak test and certificate is $180 to $350. A meter to appliance line is quoted once the route is settled.
Tell us what is connected now and what you want added. If you have the appliance model, the sizing gets settled on the phone.
Installed, tested and certified, at the figure agreed before we started.
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